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I’ve always been fascinated by how easy it is to multiply aeonium plants (or tree aeoniums, as they’re sometimes called).

Propagating these gorgeous drought-tolerant succulents can be super satisfying—and surprisingly straightforward.

Here is a step-by-step guide on how to grow more aeoniums from cuttings.

Learn how to propagate even more with my guides:

How to Propagate Basil Like a Pro

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Propagating Aeonium from Stem Cuttings

Stem cuttings are my go-to method for propagating aeoniums because they’re really straightforward.

Here’s how to do it:

Step 1: Select the Right Stem

The first step is choosing a healthy stem.

Look for:

• A branch that’s firm and unblemished.

• A rosette (the rounded cluster of leaves) at the top of the stem.

• A stem that’s at least 4–6 inches long. Longer stems give you more flexibility for planting.

It’s important to pick stems from a plant that’s actively growing rather than dormant.

Aeoniums can go dormant in hot weather, so propagation is best done during cooler months when the plant is in its growth phase.

Step 2: Make the Cut

Using clean, sharp scissors or pruners, make a clean cut just below a node (the point where leaves or smaller stems emerge).

A clean cut is essential because jagged edges can make the stem more prone to rotting.

Pro Tip:

Sterilize your tools with rubbing alcohol before making the cut.

This reduces the risk of introducing bacteria or fungi that could harm the plant.

Step 3: Let It Callus

This step is non-negotiable.

Once you’ve cut the stem, it needs to dry out and form a protective callus over the cut end.

Here’s how:

1. Place the cutting in a cool, shaded area with good air circulation.

2. Leave it alone for 2–3 days, or until the cut end feels dry and slightly hardened.

Why Callusing Matters:

Callusing prevents moisture from entering the stem, which can cause rot when the cutting is planted.

Step 4: Plant the Cutting

Now it’s time to plant your stem cutting.

Follow these steps:

Prepare the Pot:

Choose a pot with drainage holes and fill it with well-draining soil.

I usually use a mix of succulent soil and perlite for extra drainage:

Plant the Cutting:

Insert the callused end of the stem into the soil, burying it about 1–2 inches deep.

Firmly press the soil around the base to secure the cutting.

Position It Well:

Place the pot in a spot with bright, indirect sunlight.

Direct sunlight can scorch the cutting before it has a chance to root.

Pro Tip:

If the cutting feels wobbly, you can use small rocks or stakes to stabilize it until it roots.

Step 5: Water Sparingly

Aeonium cuttings don’t need much water while they’re rooting.

Here’s what works for me:

• Avoid overwatering, as soggy soil can lead to rot.

• Lightly mist the soil every few days, just enough to keep it slightly damp.

Once you see new growth (a sign that roots have formed), you can gradually increase the amount of water.

However, always let the soil dry out between waterings.

Step 6: Watch for Roots

Root formation typically takes 2–4 weeks, but this depends on factors like temperature and humidity.

You’ll know your cutting has rooted if:

• It feels firm when you gently tug on it.

• You see new leaves forming at the rosette.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Skipping the Callus Step:

Planting a fresh cut stem increases the risk of rot.

Always let it callus first.

Overwatering:

New cuttings are vulnerable to waterlogged soil.

Stick to light misting.

Planting in Poor Soil:

Regular garden soil often retains too much moisture.

Use a gritty, well-draining mix designed for succulents.

Learn more in my guide: Garden Soil vs. Potting Soil: How to Choose the Right One.

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Propagating Aeonium from Leaves

Propagating aeonium from leaves can be a bit trickier compared to stem cuttings, but with patience and the right approach, it’s possible to grow new plants.

Here’s how to do it:

Step 1: Choose Healthy, Intact Leaves

Not all leaves are created equal when it comes to propagation.

Here’s what to look for:

Plump, Healthy Leaves:

Choose leaves that are firm, full, and undamaged.

Wrinkled or torn leaves are less likely to root.

Fully Detached Leaves:

Gently twist and pull a leaf off the base of the rosette.

It should come off cleanly without leaving a tear or any part of the leaf behind on the stem.

Why This Matters:

A clean, intact leaf has all the nutrients and energy needed to support the propagation process.

Step 2: Allow the Leaf to Callus

Just like with stem cuttings, the leaf needs time to dry and form a protective callus over the cut end.

Here’s how:

1. Place the leaf in a cool, shaded area with good airflow.

2. Let it sit undisturbed for 2–3 days, or until the cut end feels dry and slightly hardened.

Pro Tip:

Avoid skipping this step. Planting a fresh leaf without callusing increases the likelihood of rot.

Step 3: Prepare the Soil

Leaf propagation works best with a light, well-draining soil mix.

Here’s how to set it up:

Use a shallow pot or tray with drainage holes like this one:

Fill it with a succulent soil mix or a blend of potting soil and perlite (to improve drainage).

Lightly mist the soil to make it slightly damp but not soggy.

Step 4: Position the Leaf on the Soil

Unlike stem cuttings, leaves should not be buried in the soil.

Here’s what to do:

1. Lay the callused leaf flat on the surface of the soil, with the cut end touching the soil lightly.

2. Ensure the leaf remains in contact with the soil without being fully covered.

Pro Tip:

If you’re propagating multiple leaves, space them out so they have room to grow without competing for light or nutrients.

Step 5: Provide Optimal Conditions

Here’s how to create the ideal environment for leaf propagation:

Light:

Place the tray in a bright, indirect light spot.

Direct sunlight can scorch the leaf before roots form.

Humidity:

Leaves prefer a bit of extra humidity during propagation.

If your space is dry, consider using a humidity dome or lightly covering the tray with plastic wrap (leaving some openings for airflow).

Watering:

Mist the soil every 2–3 days to keep it slightly damp.

Avoid overwatering, as excess moisture can cause the leaf to rot.

Step 6: Watch for Growth

This is the exciting part!

With patience, you’ll notice changes over the coming weeks:

Tiny Roots:

Small roots will begin to grow from the cut end of the leaf.

Baby Plants:

After the roots form, a tiny rosette (baby plant) will emerge at the base of the leaf.

This process can take anywhere from 4 to 8 weeks, so don’t worry if nothing happens right away.

Step 7: Transition to Individual Pots

Once the baby plants are large enough to handle (usually when they have a few sets of leaves), it’s time to move them:

1. Gently separate the baby plant from the original leaf if it hasn’t detached on its own.

2. Pot the new plant in its own container filled with succulent soil.

3. Gradually introduce it to more sunlight and a regular watering schedule.

Common Challenges and How to Overcome Them

Leaf Rot:

This usually happens if the leaf was planted too soon or overwatered.

Always let it callus and avoid excess moisture.

No Growth:

If nothing happens, the leaf may not have been healthy enough to begin with.

Try again with a plumper, intact leaf.

Drying Out:

If the leaf shrivels up before roots or a rosette appear, it may be a sign of insufficient humidity.

Light misting can help.

Can All Aeoniums Be Propagated from Leaves?

Not all species of aeoniums propagate easily from leaves.

Aeonium arboreum and similar varieties are more likely to succeed, while others may struggle.

If you’re unsure, experiment with multiple leaves and see which ones take root.

For more propagation tips, check out my guide:

The Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Best Electric Propagators

Tools Needed for Propagating Aeonium

Before starting any propagation project, it’s good to gather all the tools and materials you’ll need.

Having everything on hand makes the process much smoother and ensures your aeonium propagation project has the best chance of success.

Here’s what I would recommend:

1. Healthy Aeonium Plants

The starting point for propagation is a healthy parent plant.

Look for an aeonium that:

• Has strong, firm stems and leaves.

• Shows no signs of pests, diseases, or rot.

• Is actively growing (propagation works best when the plant isn’t dormant).

The most popular varieties for propagation are:

Aeonium arboreum (Tree Aeonium): Known for its tall stems and green rosettes.

Aeonium ‘Black Rose’: A really cool variety with dark purple to black leaves.

Aeonium ‘Kiwi’: Really pretty variety with green, yellow, and pink hues.

2. Sharp, Sterilized Scissors or Pruners

Cutting tools are essential for stem or leaf propagation.

Here’s what to keep in mind:

• Use sharp scissors or pruning shears to ensure a clean cut, which helps prevent damage to the plant.

• Sterilize your tools with rubbing alcohol or a diluted bleach solution before and after use to avoid spreading bacteria or fungi.

3. Well-Draining Soil Mix

Aeoniums thrive in soil that drains quickly to prevent waterlogging.

For propagation, I recommend:

• A commercial succulent or cactus mix.

• Or, make your own mix by combining:

  • 2 parts potting soil.

  • 1 part coarse sand or perlite.

The gritty texture of the soil ensures excess water flows away, reducing the risk of root rot.

4. Small Pots or Containers

Choose containers with drainage holes to prevent water from pooling at the bottom.

For propagation, small, shallow pots are ideal:

• Use 2–4-inch pots for single cuttings or leaves.

5. A Water Spray Bottle

A spray bottle is perfect for gently misting the soil during the early stages of propagation.

This helps maintain a slightly moist environment without soaking the soil.

Pro Tip:

Avoid using a watering can, as it can apply too much water at once, leading to soggy conditions.

6. Rooting Hormone Powder (Optional)

While not mandatory, rooting hormone can speed up the process by encouraging root development.

It’s especially useful if:

• You’re propagating from stem cuttings.

• You’re working with leaves, which can take longer to root.

To use it, simply dip the cut end of the stem or leaf into the powder before planting.

7. A Bright, Indirect Light Source

Aeoniums need plenty of light during propagation, but avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch sensitive cuttings or leaves.

Here are some options:

• Place pots near a bright windowsill with filtered light.

• If propagating indoors, consider using a grow light to supplement natural light.

8. Optional Humidity Dome or Plastic Wrap

For propagating aeoniums from leaves or seeds, maintaining consistent humidity can help:

• Use a humidity dome or lightly cover the pots with plastic wrap.

• Leave some openings for airflow to prevent mold or mildew.

9. Gloves (Optional)

Aeoniums aren’t toxic, but wearing gloves can protect your hands from soil or any sap that may irritate sensitive skin.

Propagate even more plants with my guide:

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Caring for Your New Aeoniums

Once your aeoniums have successfully rooted—whether from cuttings, leaves, or seeds—it’s time to focus on keeping them healthy and thriving.

Proper care during this stage ensures your new plants grow strong.

Here’s how to care for your young aeoniums:

1. Light Requirements

Aeoniums love bright, indirect light, but their specific needs may vary depending on their age and environment.

Indoors:

Place your pots near a sunny window that receives plenty of natural light.

If natural light is limited, use a grow light to provide 6–8 hours of light per day.

Outdoors:

Gradually acclimate your young aeoniums to outdoor conditions by introducing them to morning sunlight for a few hours a day.

Avoid harsh midday or afternoon sun, which can scorch tender plants.

Pro Tip:

If your aeonium begins to stretch or grow leggy, it may be a sign that it’s not getting enough light. Relocate it to a brighter spot.

2. Watering Young Aeoniums

Watering is a delicate balance with aeoniums, as they’re prone to root rot if overwatered.

Here’s how to do it right:

• When to Water:

  • Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

  • Check the top inch of soil; if it feels dry to the touch, it’s time to water.

• How to Water:

  • Water deeply but infrequently. Pour water at the base of the plant until it drains out of the pot.

  • Avoid getting water on the rosettes, as moisture can pool and cause rot.

Seasonal Tip:

Aeoniums tend to go dormant during the hottest months.

During dormancy, reduce watering significantly—just enough to keep the soil from drying out completely.

For more watering tips, check out my guide: How to Use Watering Globes.

3. Soil and Repotting

The right soil is critical for long-term health, and repotting may become necessary as your aeonium grows.

• Soil: Continue using a well-draining succulent mix to prevent water from sitting around the roots.

• Repotting:

  • Repot when roots outgrow the container or become crowded, typically every 1–2 years.

  • Choose a pot one size larger than the current one, ensuring it has drainage holes.

  • Refresh the soil when repotting to provide nutrients and improve drainage.

Pro Tip:

Repotting is also a good time to inspect the roots for any signs of rot or pests.

4. Temperature and Humidity

Aeoniums thrive in mild temperatures and low humidity.

Here’s how to keep them comfortable:

• Temperature Range:

  • Ideal: 65–75°F (18–24°C).

  • Protect your aeoniums from frost by bringing them indoors or covering them during cold weather.

• Humidity:

  • Avoid overly humid conditions, which can encourage fungal issues.

  • Ensure good airflow around the plant, especially indoors.

5. Fertilizing Your Aeoniums

Fertilizing isn’t strictly necessary, but it can boost growth and overall health, especially during the growing season.

When to Fertilize:

During spring and fall, when aeoniums are actively growing.

What to Use:

• A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength.

• Alternatively, use a fertilizer formulated for succulents.

How Often:

Once a month during the growing season.

Avoid fertilizing during dormancy.

6. Pests and Diseases

Young aeoniums can sometimes attract pests or develop diseases.

Here’s how to handle common issues:

Pests:

Watch out for mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites.

Treat infestations with insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Diseases:

Root rot is the most common issue, caused by overwatering.

If you suspect rot, remove the plant from the soil, trim off affected roots, and replant in fresh, dry soil.

7. Pruning and Maintenance

As your aeoniums grow, occasional pruning can keep them looking tidy and encourage healthier growth.

Remove Dead Leaves:

Gently pull off any dried or shriveled leaves from the base of the rosette.

Encourage Bushier Growth:

If your aeonium becomes leggy, prune back the stem.

The plant will often produce new growth at the cut site.

8. Long-Term Growth Tips

Cluster Growth:

Aeoniums tend to form clusters over time.

You can leave them as-is for a natural look or separate them to propagate even more plants.

Dormancy Awareness:

During dormancy, growth will slow, and the rosettes may close slightly.

This is normal—just resume regular care when the plant wakes up.

For more growing tips, check out my guides:

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Quick FAQs 

Can aeoniums be propagated in water?

Yes! Propagating aeonium in water is an option, though less common.

Simply place the cut end of a stem cutting in a jar of water, ensuring the rosette stays above the waterline.

Change the water every few days, and roots should appear in 2–3 weeks.

Once roots form, transfer the cutting to soil.

Can you propagate aeonium indoors?

Absolutely.

Aeoniums can be propagated indoors as long as they receive bright, indirect light.

A sunny windowsill or grow light works well.

Can aeoniums grow from broken leaves?

Not always.

Unlike some succulents, aeoniums are less likely to propagate successfully from broken or incomplete leaves.

Use a fully intact leaf for the best chance of success.

How do I propagate Aeonium arboreum specifically?

Aeonium arboreum propagates best through stem cuttings.

Follow the same steps for stem propagation outlined above for excellent results.

Can you buy aeonium cuttings for propagation?

Yes, aeonium cuttings are available for sale from many nurseries and online.

Look for healthy, fresh cuttings with no signs of rot.

What’s the best soil for aeonium propagation?

A gritty, well-draining soil mix designed for succulents is ideal.

You can also create your own by mixing potting soil with sand or perlite.

How long does it take for aeonium cuttings to root?

It typically takes 2–4 weeks for roots to form on stem cuttings, though this can vary depending on conditions like temperature and humidity.

What is the best time of year to propagate aeonium?

The best time to propagate aeonium is during their active growing season in spring and fall, when mild temperatures and optimal daylight support root formation and growth.

Avoid summer, as aeoniums may go dormant in the heat, and winter, when slower growth and reduced sunlight can hinder success.

However, with controlled indoor conditions, propagation can be done year-round in some cases.

If you have any other questions or tips about propagating aeoniums, let me know in the comments section below!

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